Plant Care

Summary of Plant's Water Needs

Container Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens and Perennials

1. Dig the hole 10" to 12" larger than the diameter of the container. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole it is is even with the surface level of the ground. If your soil is poorly drained dig the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole the top of the soil in the container is elevated above the surface level of the ground by one half to one inch.


2. Remove the pot from the container by gently tapping several times around the outside of it, laying it on its side, then gently pulling it out of the container. If necessary, press down on the top of the container to loosen and remove it.


3. If the roots are circling the pot, gently cut them on four sides with a sharp knife. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole half full with the excavated soil. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the soil and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the rest of the hole with soil, water and work it in the same manner.


4. Straighten the plant if required and re-compact the soil around the plant by using your feet (walk around the trunk in a circular manner). The plant should not be staked unless it is loose or has a large top mass and has been planted in a windy location where it might be blown over.


5. On larger plants, build a small moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a two to four inch wall will suffice.


6. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.

Balled and Burlapped Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens

1. Dig the hole a minimum of 8" to 12" larger than the diameter of the ball to be planted. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in it, the plant will be elevated approximately two to three inches (one to two inches for shrubs). Do not dig the hole deeper, do not place back filled soil in the bottom of the hole (you do not want the plant to settle in deeper at a later date). The planting depth is critical. When planting in a heavy clay soil the ball should be raised 4" to 8" depending upon how heavy the clay is.


2. Carefully and gently place the plant in the hole so as not to tear the roots away from the tree. Make sure it is elevated to the proper level as described in point one above.


3. Make sure the plant is straight, check the elevation of the plant to see it is correct. Fill the hole with the excavated soil to about a third of the way to set it. A combination of 1/3 compost or black dirt and 2/3 excavated soil has been successful for us over the years.


4. Gently remove any twine, rope or burlap wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Remove any tags, twine or marking tape from the top of the tree at the same time. If a plant has been harvested in a wire cage, do not remove the wire cage. The wire basket is the structure that holds the soil and the root system together. Removing the basket often leads to complete loss of soil on the roots and loss of the plant. The basket eventually rust away and the burlap rots away. We have shown no loss of growth due to having a wire cage.
   
   If the tree has a wire cage, gently remove the rope that has been used to tie the wire cage to the trunk of the tree. Cut the burlap off the top of the ball to allow water to quickly enter the root ball. Bend the prongs of the wire basket downward to prevent them from sticking out of the ground.


5. Recheck to see the plant is still straight in the hole. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the first third of the soil which is in the hole and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the second third of the hole and do the same. Fill the balance of the hole and do the same. If you must water post planting then make sure to backfill all air pockets created from initial watering.


6. Build a moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a four to six inch wall will suffice.


7. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.

A Comprehensive Watering Guideline

How to Apply the Water

The best method for the application of water is to use a soaker hose or install a simple trickle (drip) irrigation system. The next best way is to use a garden hose and set the pressure so that the water only trickles out.

Where to Apply the Water

Surface watering is most effective. Apply the water directly over where you need water in the soil. Water should be applied near the base of the trunk of the plant (at a very low trickle as described above). Deep watering using a wand is not recommended.

The area to be watered should be twice the area of the diameter of the plant and back filled area around the plant. This is a critical issue due to hydrologic discontinuity. The key to accomplishing this is to water slowly.

How Often to Water

Plants need to be watered three times a week for the first month after planting. Unless it rains and the amount of rain is over three inches, watering should should still be done.

After the first month, plants should be watered twice a week. During hot spells all plants should be checked (and watched for signs of water need) every three days.

Begin watering plants which were planted in the previous year(s) when new foliage or growth appears. These guidelines apply to these plants as well as newly planted ones.

Water deciduous plants until their leaves fall off in the fall. Once the leaves fall off give the plants a final heavy soaking for the winter.

Water evergreen plants until Thanksgiving. At this time give the plant a final heavy soaking for the winter.

How Much Water to Apply

Plants need to have between one half gallon and one and one half gallons of water per square foot per week applied to them depending upon the soil type. Sandy soils need approximately one and one half gallons of water per square foot applied per week. Good black soil needs approximately one gallon of water per square foot applied per week. Clay soils require approximately one half gallon of water per square foot applied per week. One half gallon of water per square foot equals approximately one inch of water.

Determine the number of square feet requiring watering. Multiply the number of square feet requiring watering times the rate above (depending upon the soil type as stated) to determine the total number of gallons of water per week required for the plant.

It is recommended the first time one applies water to a new plant they take a one gallon jug and measure the output of their hose when it is set at a trickle rate. One will then know how long it will take to apply the amount of water required (as established above) for the plant.

We recommend watering by using Steps 1 through 3 above, and checking in between each watering to assure the amount of moisture being applied is correct.

We do not publish estimated watering time guidelines as, due to the many variables, suggesting a plant will be watered properly if it is watered for X number of minutes can be misleading and result in watering problems. Following the guidelines above, you will find it will take between 10 minutes to 30 minutes to water a container grown plant, depending upon its size and the soil conditions, and you will find it will take between 45 minutes to 90 minutes to water a balled and burlapped plant, depending upon its' size and the soil conditions.

Special Watering Considerations

Plants planted in heavy clay soils require the most consideration. Seldom will they need more than 1" of water per week. They should be checked regularly to see that they are not too dry or too wet.

In clay soils it is beneficial to first test for draining before planting. Dig a hole where the plant is to go, fill the hole with water and let it stand for 24 hours. If there is water remaining in the hole after that time, then special planting and watering procedures will be necessary.

Trees next to pavement or other hot surfaces can be 20 to 30 degrees warmer than plants in the back yard.

For every 18 degrees change in temperature the amount of water lost by a plant almost doubles. Therefore it is critical one checks their plants more regularly during hot spells.

Plants need to be watered slowly so the soil uptakes the moisture. Watering quickly results in more runoff and less effective watering. Mulching will help retain water over a longer period.

Less frequent and deeper watering from the surface is more beneficial than light watering.

Automatic lawn irrigation systems which run 20 to 30 minutes per day can often result in a continuously saturated soil, especially in clay soils. This will lead to severe root damage and plant death. If you have an irrigation system installed, careful monitoring of your watering needs should be done and any necessary adjustments made.

Common Signs of Over Watering or Under Watering

Over watering will cause leaves to turn yellow and fall off. This is the first and the easiest way to determine if there is a need for the reduction of water to a plant.

Under watering will result in leaves turning brown from the outside edge inward. This is really a sign of plant stress, however water (the lack of) is a primary factor in most instances.

Planting Guidelines Part I: Pre-Planting Considerations

The Season For Planting

In todays nursery market trees and shrubs are planted from early spring through late fall. Improvements in production technology and improved plant care knowledge have realistically about transformed our industry into a year around business. Generally speaking, spring, summer and fall are all good times to plant while winter is not. The key to successful planting at a given time is in understanding the nature of the given product item you are dealing with, how it has been grown and/or processed and its' specific care needs when it is planted at a given time of the year. The best way to understand when something can be planted (and the associated risk of planting a product processed in a specific manner at that time) is to ask a knowledgeable nurseryman with extensive experience. As it is within any industry or discipline, any forward thinking, individual will constantly strive to improve their ability to deliver the highest level of quality at the most competitive price, at the right time to the customer. When they give you advice and a recommendation it will be based on a combination study and experimentation within their marketplace and will represent what they have found works best for the given situation and timeframe. We at Country Arbors suggest you contact us to discuss your planting needs and objectives and then at that point we can assist you in effectively accomplishing these needs.

Where To Plant

After the decision is made to plant, the first decision made must be where to plant it. The primary objective of planting a plant is enhance and beautify your landscaping. To best assure this is accomplished one needs to plant the plant where its opportunity for growth won't be impeded by lack of sunlight, soil drainage problems, overhead or underground utilities, buildings or other obstacles. One first must know what the natural mature size of a given plant is, then select a site which will allow the plant to grow to its mature size without impeding upon other items or structures. As a general rule large landscape-sized trees should be planted a minimum of 15 feet away from obstructions and shrubs should be planted a minimum of 5 feet away. Plants enhance the beauty of your landscape and increase the value of your property; therefore there is nothing sadder than, after years of developing it's natural beauty, one has to remove the plant or alter its beauty through severe trimming only because the initial decision of where to plant it was not well thought through.

Ensuring Livability

The next series of decisions are to insure the plant is provided with the best possible opportunity to grow. All growing things grow best when placed in the most conducive growing environment. Realistically it is impossible to provide every plant the "perfect" location. This is due to many reasons, the main one being each plant has its own set of needs, many of them extensively different. Providing such a location would result in the use of a very limited selection of plants when the area of use is restricted to the typical average home acreage, its geographical location, etc. Fortunately plants are very versatile and most can adopt to a range of conditions. Otherwise, usually it's more in assuring one is planting in conditions containing no extremes than it is assuring perfection. Some of the other major considerations of importance are:

Environmental:

• Soil Type (Quality Of)
• Water (Quantity, Quality, Run Off)
• Light (Intensity, Duration)
• Temperature (Sheltered Area vs. Open Area)
• Wind (Sheltered Area vs. Open Area)
• Lay Of The Land (Elevation and Slope)
• Existing Vegetation (Existing Canopies, Roots, Etc.)

Hardiness

• Cold and Heat Tolerance
• Water and Drought Tolerance
• Soil Tolerance

Functionality

• Mature Size
• Growth Rate
• Longevity
• Disease Resistance

Identifying Your Planting Objectives

All plants are planted with an objective in mind. All though wide-ranging and diverse, some of the most common objectives are:

Aesthetic Objectives

• Form
• Texture
• Color
• Flowering Habit

Ease of Care Objectives

• Minimum Care versus High Maintenance

Longevity and Growth Objectives

• Short Lived versus Long Lived
• Plant Hardiness
• Rate Of Growth

Understanding the Types of Planting Stock

Most plants are sold in one of three common forms of packaging. The type of packaging used is normally a reflection of the size of the plant being sold (Though not always). These methods and some of the benefits and considerations of each are:

Balled and Burlapped (Hand or Spade Dug)

• Used For Larger Specimen Plants
• Retains More Root Mass

Container Grown

• Used for Shrubbery, Smaller Trees
• Longer Planting Season
• Greater Shipping Flexibility
• Less Transplanting Shock
• The Cash and Carry Norm

Bare Root

• Used for Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Fruits, Etc.
• Typically smaller sized material
• Typically easy-to-move items
• Low Cost
• Short (Spring) Planting Season

Once one has given consideration to the various needs and objectives presented above they will have taken the first step towards choosing plants which will best satisfy their needs and will know they have been chosen in a manner which will ensure they will perform to their maximum potential.

We at Country Arbors stand ready to assist you in understanding the features of any given plant, the locations where it will and won't work, when it should be planted and the level of risk relative to livability and performance the plant has at the time of planting.

Planting Guidelines Part I: Pre-Planting Considerations - Last Update: 03.15.17

Planting Guidelines Part II: Plant Installation Guidelines

The first key issue in ensuring a plant lives and grows at its maximum potential is to plant it correctly. Our recommended planting procedures are based on our years of research, experimentation and the results (and non-results or negative results) obtained from various planting methods. Our family has been successfully planting trees in this area for the past 138 years and what we recommend is what we currently find to result in the best performance of the plant in the customers landscaping from the date of planting onward.

Pre-Planting Care

Plant The Plant Immediately When You Buy It
Homeowners should plant plants as soon as possible after buying them. Plants require an extensive amount of care during the timeframe between harvesting and planting. They must be protected from drying and overheating, given varying levels of shade, handled in a specific manner, watered in a specific manner, etc. to insure they remain viable when they are to be planted. Let Country Arbors do this, that's one of the services we provide. You can always make arrangements to have whatever stock it is you need available when you need it. This way you ensure the material you receive is viable at the time of planting.

Prepare the Planting Site Prior to Planting

The planting site should be clean at the time of planting. All competing non-desired vegetation should be removed. There are several methods by which this can be done.

Multiple Tilling

• Kills non-desired small vegetation over time
• Requires 2-4 tillings over a couple of months

Opaque Plastic Sheeting

• Kills non-desired small vegetation in 20-30 Days
• Stake down the plastic over area a month before planting

Hand Weeding

• Ready for planting immediately
• Hard work and time intensive

Stripping (sod only)

• Mechanical means is quickest, easiest
• Hand stripping is hard, time consuming

Herbicides

• Kills non-desired vegetation in approximately 10 days
• Extremely important that manufacturers directions are followed

Preparing the Planting Hole

The Importance of Planting a Tree Correctly
Planting day is here. The plants have been chosen at the nursery, the locations selected, the ground prepared and the truck just arrived at your house (or you brought it home yourself if you're really ready to get going). Now the work is to begin, the plants have to be planted. Before addressing the issue of how to plant the material, let's take a look at why proper planting is so important. A 2" BB tree will leave behind 90%-95% of its absorbing root surface at the nursery when it is dug. More important however is that it brought the bulk of its weight and all its stored sugar which will fuel the new root growth which will will replace the old, removed root growth. That's the reason the majority of all balled and burlapped plants survive when they leave the nursery if they are given any type of decent follow-up. A beautiful 5 gallon shrub will bring all its reserves and the absorbing root system with it so there won't be any lag time relative to root replacement. There's another issue however. Most container grown plants are grown in a soil substrate mix (which may or may not contain soil), and these mixes often cause problems. Artificial mixes such as bark often very light and the roots don't adhere well to the mix. When the plant is planted it is very easy to "shake down" the plant until it more resembles a bare root plant than a container grown one. When it's too heavy it's very difficult to address a matted root situation. The key point is these plants are vigorous, growing and ready and willing to keep doing so. However in order to do so they must be planted in a manner which maintains their current vitality and provides them with the opportunity to continue to grow at their maximum capacity. Their ability to do this will depend upon two things, how well the plant is planted relative to the needs of its new location and the care the plant receives after planting.

The Shape and Width of the Hole
The planting hole should be tapered to the size of the root ball. Generally, larger on top and smaller on the bottom. This is because most root growth occurs in the upper 12 inches of soil so the planting area needs to be shallow and wide to accommodate the development of the fibrous roots (these new roots must push through the soil). If the hole is not adequate for this root growth there will not be enough loosened soil for this fibrous root growth development. In a stricter sense, the soil volume needed for healthy root growth depends upon the species, mature size, life span and stress factors. Ideally, the hole needs to be 6-12 inches wider than the size of the ball to enable it to be properly set.

The Depth of the Hole
The bottom of the hole should be I" to 2" less than the depth of the ball being planted. Otherwise, the top of the roots or root ball should be I" to 2" above the surface of the ground from its original growing level. The most common way of identifying this level is to look at the trunk flare (The point where the trunk ends and root development begins), that's the original growing level. The bottom plant should sit on untouched soil, not amended soil. Amended soil compacts over time and will result in the plant being planted too deep. As stated earlier most of the plants roots will develop in the top 12" of soil, if a plant is planted too deep it will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen.

Planting Guidelines Part III: Post-Planting Care

The most important consideration in post-planting care is watering. The majority of plants which die, die because they are either under-watered or over-watered. There is no way to prepare a generic set of watering instructions which covers every planting situation. This is because there are too many variables to each planting and each set of variables requires a slightly different modification in how to most effectively water for the given planting situation. This variability even extends to different plants within the same property.

Neither our valued customer nor ourselves want a plant to die. Both take pride in growing a beautiful plant and appreciate the long term value they bring into our lives both aesthetically and monetarily. Because of a plant's critical need for effective watering and the resultant outcome and impact when it does not occur, we have prepared this expanded, supplemental Post-Planting Care Guideline to assist the homeowner in better understanding the issue from an overall standpoint. It is an extension of our regular planting guidelines and presents many of the reasons we recommend planting in the manner we do

An Overview of Watering

Why is Effective Watering so Difficult?
Rapid establishment and the long term growth of trees and shrubs is dependent upon the root system. Therefore, when planting every advantage must be provided for the growth and regeneration of the roots.

When planting there may be extreme differences in the texture, compaction and organic matter between the soil of the plant, the existing soil and the back fill material. This difference causes an effect called hydrologic discontinuity to occur. Water does not readily penetrate the interface of heterogeneous media until saturation of one medium is reached and surface tension forces are overcome. When there are major differences between the site soil, the back fill and the medium the plant is growing in these extremes often result in the acute stress or sudden death of newly transplanted trees and shrubs. This is a key reason why amending and/or fertilizing the back fill is not recommended. Doing so adds a third adjacent soil to contend with (versus two).

In an attempt to explain, the porosity of a soil determines how easily it will give up its water. A saturated medium will give up moisture the most easily. Sandy soil is the most porous and will take and give up moisture the quickest. Good black soil could be considered medium and will give up and take water at a medium rate. Clay soil is the least porous and takes and gives up water the slowest. When the plant planted has been grown in a coarse (porous) mix the roots have trouble pulling water from the surrounding back fill and/or existing soil. That is why often the surrounding soil seems to be moist and adequate, however the medium around the plant is very dry. Even though moist it is not moist enough to overcome the moisture tension between itself and the medium the plant has been grown in. Looked at another way, the more compact the soil the more surface tension there is (unwillingness to give up moisture) The converse of this can also occur. Newly planted material can succumb to root suffocation caused by poorly drained soil pits.

When looked at in this manner one can easily see the possible permutations which can occur when multiple, dissimilar soils exist within the planting area.

Why Water is Critical To a Plant
Water is the most limited essential resource for plant survival and growth. Water shortages severely damage young and old plants alike. Lack of water can also setup healthy trees for other problems such as tree decline, pest problems and nonrecoverable damage.

Plants need between one inch and three inches of water per week distributed through watering or rain during normal temperatures. The amount will depend upon the soil type.

The small, water-absorbing roots of plants are easily damaged during transplanting. For sufficient water uptake to occur the root ball of a newly planted tree, shrub or evergreen must be kept moist, but not saturated, and it must not dry out.

Key Variables in Establishing Water Needs
For every 18 degrees change in the temperature the amount of water lost by a tree almost doubles. Therefore it is critical to factor temperature into plant watering requirements. Trees surrounded by pavement or other hot surfaces can be 20 to 30 degrees warmer than trees in protected backyard locations. Trees constantly lose water to the atmosphere.

The Principles of Effective Watering

Understanding How to Water
The majority of the plants' absorbing roots are in the top 12 inches of the soil.

Water does not move sideways in a soil, it moves downward. You should top water and apply the water directly over where you need water in the soil. Surface watering allows the greatest chance for a plant to absorb water, helps maintain soil health, and helps essential element cycling and transformations in the soil.

The best way to water trees is by soaker hose or trickle (drip) irrigation.

Less frequent and deeper watering from the surface is more beneficial than light watering. Deep watering by sticking a pipe or wand into the soil 18-24 inches is not as good for trees as surface applications for this reason. Below 24 inches misses the active roots.

One half gallon (.5) of water per square foot equals approximately one gallon of water per square foot. To extrapolate, if the area needing to be watered is approximately one square yard (the area one would want to water if they were to plant a 2 inch balled and burlapped tree), then one would need to slowly apply approximately 15 gallons of water evenly over the surface area every week under normal weather circumstances, with normal soil conditions. The area to be watered calculation allows for watering a small amount of area outside the diameter of the plant hole as the edges of the soil buttressing up against the refilled plant hole should also be watered to encourage root growth in the surrounding soil.

Testing for Drainage
Dig a hole where the plant is to go and fill it with water. Allow the water to stand for 24 hours. If the water has not completely drained from the hole in that period, then special planting and watering procedures may be necessary.

Key Variables Affecting the Amount of Water Needed
Soil texture is a primary determinant as to how much water a plant will need. The size of the root ball plus the size of the planting hole is a primary determinant as to how much water a plant will need. Heavy clay soils severely restrict the movement of water and commonly lead to saturated conditions. In areas with high levels of clay or silt (finely textured soils) newly planted trees should receive no more than 1 inch of surface water per week during the growing season. Supplemental watering is not necessary during periods of adequate rainfall.

Sandy soils drain more easily, therefore up to 3 inches of water per week may be necessary to keep the soil moist. Carefully monitor the moisture level in the root balls of evergreen and trees which are planted in sandy soils. Water does not drain easily from the fine textured soil of the root ball into the surrounding sandy soil. Therefore the root ball may become saturated.

A Quick Summary of Planting

Container Trees, Shrubs, Evergreens and Perennials

1. Dig the hole 10" to 12" larger than the diameter of the container. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole it is is even with the surface level of the ground. If your soil is poorly drained dig the hole so that when the plant is placed in the hole the top of the soil in the container is elevated above the surface level of the ground by one half to one inch.


2. Remove the pot from the container by gently tapping several times around the outside of it, laying it on its side, then gently pulling it out of the container. If necessary, press down on the top of the container to loosen and remove it.


3. If the roots are circling the pot, gently cut them on four sides with a sharp knife. Place the plant in the hole, fill the hole half full with the excavated soil. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the soil and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the rest of the hole with soil, water and work it in the same manner.


4. Straighten the plant if required and re-compact the soil around the plant by using your feet (walk around the trunk in a circular manner). The plant should not be staked unless it is loose or has a large top mass and has been planted in a windy location where it might be blown over.


5. On larger plants, build a small moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a two to four inch wall will suffice.


6. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.

Balled and Burlapped Trees, Shrubs and Evergreens

1. Dig the hole a minimum of 8" to 12" larger than the diameter of the ball to be planted. Dig the depth of the hole so that when the plant is placed in it, the plant will be elevated approximately two to three inches (one to two inches for shrubs). Do not dig the hole deeper, do not place back filled soil in the bottom of the hole (you do not want the plant to settle in deeper at a later date). The planting depth is critical. When planting in a heavy clay soil the ball should be raised 4" to 8" depending upon how heavy the clay is.


2. Carefully and gently place the plant in the hole so as not to tear the roots away from the tree. Make sure it is elevated to the proper level as described in point one above.


3. Make sure the plant is straight, check the elevation of the plant to see it is correct. Fill the hole with the excavated soil to about a third of the way to set it. Do not amend the soil with any type of amendment.


4. Gently remove any twine, rope or burlap wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Remove any tags, twine or marking tape from the top of the tree at the same time. If a plant has been harvested in a wire cage, do not remove the wire cage. If the tree has a wire cage, gently remove the rope that has been used to tie the wire cage to the trunk of the tree. Do not loosen, remove or pull back the burlap on the ball. Bend the prongs of the wire basket downward to prevent them from sticking out of the ground.


5. Recheck to see the plant is still straight in the hole. Put a hose on slow trickle, water the first third of the soil which is in the hole and work it to remove any air pockets. Fill the second third of the hole and do the same. Fill the balance of the hole and do the same.


6. Build a moat around the plant at the point where the existing soil meets the back fill soil. Depending upon the size of the plant, a four to six inch wall will suffice.


7. Mulch the plant with a three inch layer of premium shredded hardwood bark. Minimally, place the mulch in the moat, however mulching further out is better in that it will assist in retaining water over a broader area.